The Grove Project

Pinks, Whites and Browns - It’s What’s for Dinner

For those not familiar with the U.S. shrimp industry, the article Ballad of Miss Dorothy begins to paint a picture of some of difficulties that many local fishermen face and the uncertain future that lies ahead for those that stick with it. True, fuel prices and equipment have whittled away fishermen’s bottom line, but fishermen are resourceful enough to get past those “minor” obstacles. Fishermen typically complain about rules and regulations putting them out of business, but you don’t hear Bud talking about that. Imports and lack of consumer awareness have greatly affected our shrimp industry.

Approximately 92% of the shrimp consumed in this country are imported from other countries, and 80% of seafood in general for that matter. Demand has exceeded domestic supply for over 40 years, but nobody really noticed until shrimp prices hit rock bottom around 2000. The cause of the drastic drop in prices: the equivalent of the “perfect economic storm” that all but crippled the U.S. shrimp industry. Growing supplies of imported, farm-raised shrimp plus a global economic slowdown at the time produced some of the lowest shrimp prices on record (similar to 1970’s prices, unadjusted for inflation). All this happened while the European Union decided to enact trade tariffs as well as enforce new food safety standards on imported pond-raised shrimp. At the time, many imported farm-raised shrimp products had at least trace amounts of antibiotics like chloramphenicol. In other words, all the shrimp that were destined for the European Union (about 1/3 of the world market at the time or 1 billion pounds) got redirected to the U.S. market at ridiculously low prices. Several years later, the World Trade Organization determined that shrimp had been illegally “dumped” onto the U.S. market and eventually imposed tariffs on shrimp originating from several guilty countries. By that time however, the damage was already done, and imported shrimp were available EVERYWHERE and at very low prices, flooding the market.

As you can imagine, demand for shrimp in the U.S. has increased steadily since the tidal wave of imports. Shrimp became the number one seafood consumed per capita in the U.S. surpassing the almighty canned tuna in 2001. Now it’s up to 4.4 pounds per capita in 2006 compared to canned tuna, the next highest at 2.9 pounds. Do you think the average consumer thinks about these things – or where all these shrimp come from - probably not.

Despite all the gloom and doom, there are still a few slivers of hope for the industry. The local and natural food movement is catching on, as is the health benefits of seafood. A national education, marketing and quality certification program is underway to differentiate wild-caught shrimp from farm-raised products http://www.wildamericanshrimp.com/main.html. People are starting to ask where their seafood comes from and some are even insisting on local, seasonal products. Some shrimpers are even starting to reduce tow times and improve icing methods to enhance product quality. But all these things take time to work through the system, and most shrimpers like Bud, don’t have time to wait for these possible changes. So they do what they have to do.

Bud may be old-timer, but he thinks like a smart businessman. He knows not to catch more shrimp that he can sell on his own. On his way in from shrimping, he starts placing calls to clients. Many times, he has most of the catch sold before he ever reaches the dock. He knows that selling his small quantity of shrimp to the fishhouse is probably the last resort, because the fishhouse typically buys at wholesale prices, and there is no buffer on that bottom line.

Captain Bud George is a character. A nicer man you will not meet. I like to buy shrimp from Bud when I can, because there is nothing like fresh seafood caught the same day you plan to eat it. I encourage anyone who likes to eat shrimp and learn a little about Myrtle Grove history pay Bud a visit and have a chat with him in his backyard. The shrimp are modestly priced and the conversation is free. Unlike shrimp typically sold in the seafood market or at the grocery store – Bud sells his shrimp “head-on” and does not grade or group his shrimp to size. What you get is usually a mix of sizes – just as if you caught it yourself.

When I read this story, I could really picture him talking, especially with comments like “You know what I’m saying?” If you get a chance to meet him, you’ll probably feel the same way.